By Madison Miller
Located in the former capital of Bhutan, the Punakha Dzong, or Pungtang Dewa Chhenbi Phodrang, meaning “the palace of great happiness or bliss” is both the second oldest and second largest dzong in all of Bhutan. Located on a stretch of land where the Pho chhu and Mo chhu converge, the Punakha Dzong served as the government’s center until 1955, when Thimphu became the country’s capital. With a rich mythical founding and an extensive historical development, the Punakha Dzong was and continues to be a Bhutanese marvel.
Guru Rinpoche foretold the construction of the Punakha Dzong, prophesizing that ‘between the two rivers, a Drukpa fortress will be established’ and ‘someone named Namgyal will come to reside on the trunk of the mountain which resembles a haughty elephant’. As prophesized, when Zhabdrung visited Punakha he chose the tip of the trunk of the sleeping elephant at the confluence of the female, Mo Chhu and male, Pho Chhu rivers as the place to build a dzong for his monastic body. Fulfilling the prophecy, Zhabdrung commissioned an emanational architect from the local village of Balingkha to construct the dzong in 1637. To Zhabdrung’s delight, the architect is said to have brought milk and red berries before him, giving rise to the monastic systems’ red robes. In addition to this, the architect slept in Zhabdrung’s presence for three nights to induce a revelatory dream, whereby Guru Rinpoche’s copper mountain and Zhabdrung’s Ralung is said to have come before him, thereby inspiring the design of the dzong. Full of fantastical facets, the construction of the dzong was far from ordinary, it is said that local deities and mermaids offered timber, stone, and wood as building materials.
Built upon the basis of the architect’s dream, the dzong was progressing as rapidly as Zhabdrung’s notability. By the time the dzong was completed in 1638 he had become the first unified leader of Bhutan and intended to use his newly built dzong as his central seat of governance. In accordance with this, Zhabdrung successfully moved his son, his monastic body, and both the secular and spiritual governing bodies into the dzong. Scholars believe the size of the dzong to be consistent with the six-story-structure today, excluding an additional assembly hall added after a 1986 fire. Over the years, the dzong has been host to thousands of monks and currently serves as the Winter residence of the official monastic body, The Dratshang.
Built as an embodiment of Buddhist values, the Punakha Dzong stands at 180m long and 72m wide with the utse, central tower, at six stories high. The golden dome resting on the utse was built by local ruler Gyaltsen Tenzin Rabgye in 1676, and the brass roof was gifted by the seventh Dalai Lama. However, the majority of the dzong’s features were slowly incorporated over a twenty-year period by the 13th Desi, Sherab Wangchuck, between 1744 and 1764. Built to withstand invasion, the defensive fortifications of the dzong are both overtly and subtly apparent. Strategically located between the two major rivers of Bhutan, access to the dzong is limited to the Bazam walking bridge. In addition to this, the entrance of the dzong greets its visitors with a steep, wooden draw-staircase that dually functions as one of two doors; the residing monastic body still closes the doors in the evenings. The windows within the dzong are narrow slivers designed for combative arrow shooting, and unlike most dzongs in Bhutan, there are three docheys, courtyards, rather than the typical two. The first courtyard is designated as the administrative area and consists of a bodhi tree and a momentous white stupa. Divided by the utse, the second courtyard is split into two halls where the monastic body resides. One of which is where the first king was decorated with the Order of the Knight Commander in 1905. And, most importantly, the third and southernmost dochey contains Bhutan’s most valued treasures.
Many of Bhutan’s national treasures are kept inside the Dzong, including the sacred relics of the southern Drukpa Lineage of the Kagyu school, like the Rangjung Kharsapani and the remains of Ngawang Namgyal. It is believed by some that the remains of Pema Lingpa are also housed in the dzong; however, a conflict emerges since Yudrukcholing Monastery also claims to be the protector of his remains. Nevertheless, the only individuals permitted to see such treasures at the dzong are the King, the Je Khenpo, and the two guardian lamas; a common visit entails the King and Je Khenpo seeking blessings prior to taking office. Additionally, the dzong is also host to the annual Lhenkey Dungchhur ritual, Domche festival, royal coronations, and most recently, the royal wedding. It was here that the King of Bhutan, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, married Jetsun Pema in October 2011.
In addition to its cultural significance and natural grandeur, these events help to promote and sustain the dzong’s relevance and ubiquity in contemporary Buddhist’s lives. Containing a plethora of religious images, lhakhangs, and treasures unique to Bhutan, pilgrims and residents alike visit the site to experience the splendor. Permanent residents of Punakha often visit the dzong during February and March to witness the festival’s theatrical displays and dances, in addition to various auspicious days throughout the year; during Lhenkey Dungchhur residents come and take part in worship for departed souls. The unifying factor between between residents and pilgrims is the merit gained by their offerings. Moreover, it is common to find pilgrims and tourists alike gawking at the murals in the ‘hundred pillar’ assembly hall, which depict the life of Buddha. Or, perhaps prostrating, meditating, and giving offerings to the massive, 18th century gold statues of Buddha, Zhabdrung, and Guru Rinpoche. Though the intention of the visitor may vary, the dzong’s grandeur ensures a degree of reverence is felt by all. The Punakha Dzong serves as a lasting reminder to all Buddhists the power of prophecy, heritage, and sublimity.
“Dzongs: the centre of temporal and religious authorities.” United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization. 3 Aug. 2012. Accessed 30 July 2018.
Phuntsho, Karma. “The Medieval Period: The Unification of the Dragon Country.” History of Bhutan, 229-232. Accessed 1 Aug. 2018.
“Punakha Dzong relics display extended.” Kuensel Online. 23 Apr. 2016. Accessed 31 July 2018.